Welcome to Planted Aquarium: One-stop Destination for Aquarium Lovers! This blog is dedicated to collecting, archiving, and sharing the most informative articles related to freshwater aquariums on the net. Our goal is to be the one-stop site for all the enthusiastic aquarists out there in search for information on creating, maintaining, and enjoying your aquarium. Whether it be about fish, shrimps, and even oddballs, we have it all. Due to the fact that Planted Aquarium is a blog, valuable information gets buried down deeper as new posts are added, please use the search feature to the right should you not find the information you need. Also you may request information if it has not been covered here, we will see to it that it is added. Enjoy your stay here, getting information has never been easier!

Saturday, September 8, 2012

How To Breed Betta Fish: Need-to-knows Of Breeding Betta Splendens

by: Karen Winton

Because the Betta Splendens is an attractive fish, more and more people become interested in betta for sale. Thus, many individuals also decide that they want to learn how to breed betta fish. This article focuses on betta breeding tips for wannabe betta breeders. 
Photo by: andyram1
For many people, breeding betta splendens is an enjoyable hobby. Some people, on the other hand, are interested in the topic of how to breed betta fish because they see betta for sale as profitable. When breeding bettas, however, you should have the knowledge, the time, and the resources as taking care of betta fishes can be demanding at times. 

Here are several betta breeding tips that will lead you to the path of becoming a successful breeder: 

1. Acquire enough knowledge. 

The very first thing you'll have to do if you want to raise bettas is to do your research and study. You should get complete information on the species, in this case, betta splendens, what bettas eat, how to care for a betta, and the likes. Once you have enough information, you can start taking care of bettas. Of course, before you think of breeding betta splendens, you should gain experience on caring for them first. 

2. Think about your goal. 

Before you tell yourself that you really want to understand how to breed betta fish, you first have to ask yourself why you want to rear betta fishes. You should be aware that bettas usually lay hundreds of eggs, and, if you don't have tanks that are big enough, big amounts of money to buy food, and so on, those bettas can end up dead, and, your money gets wasted. 

The following are some of the questions you should have clear answers to: do you want to breed betta fish because you want to sell them, or do you just want to participate in fish shows? Do you feel that betta breeding is a hobby you can't live without? Are you just interested in taking care of so many bettas to fill up giant aquariums in your home for decoration purposes? 

Once you have determined what your actual goal is, that is the only time that you should really strive hard to learn betta breeding tips. 

3. Set up your fish tanks properly. 

As soon as you've made the decision, the next step of how to breed betta fish is to prepare your fishes' homes the correct way. Two big tanks are needed if breeding betta splendens is your plan. There should be a detachable divider between those two aquariums. 

Each of the tanks should also be filled with around five up to ten gallons of H20. There should also be filters and heaters on those tanks, aquarium plants, reefs, etc. 

4. Purchase healthy betta splendens. 

A few words of advice for those who want to gain knowledge on how to breed betta fish: when you see betta for sale, do not immediately buy them without applying these betta breeding tips: get a male betta and a female betta that have almost the same size. You should also find a pair with good genes. Of course, if you purchase the pair from a reputable breeder, you can most of the time be sure that they have healthy genes that usually result to healthy fry. 

It is best to let your bettas adjust to their homes for a couple of months before letting your male and female betta meet each other and start multiplying. Once you see that your female and male are ready to produce eggs, you should also devote a few hours per day just to care for them, most especially, of course, for the eggs they propagate.


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About The Author

Karen Winton is an animal lover. To know how to properly care for your bettas, read: http://www.dp-db.com/betta-fish-secrets. If you are an honest to goodness betta enthusiast, see: http://www.dp-db.com/betta-lovers-guide.

Monday, February 6, 2012

How to Take Care of Betta Fish

by: Mike Hickmon


Betta fish, also known as Betta Splendens and Siamese fighting fish can be popular pets because they are friendly, interactive and can have low costs for maintenance and care. Betta fish can live for up to four years and there are some simple steps that you can follow in how to take care of betta fish so that your fish will stay happy and healthy and with you for a long time.

Before you purchase a betta fish, an important point to remember in how to take care of betta fish is what equipment that you will need to make sure that your betta fish remains healthy. You will need:

1. A 5-10 gallon fish tank
2. A filter
3. A heater
4. Water conditioner such as chlorine
5. A fish net
6. Betta fish food which is high in protein
7. Smooth stones or gravel which cover the bottom of the tank
8. Ornaments to decorate your tank as well as places for betta fish to rest on so that they do not drag their fins on the bottom of the tank and leave them prone to fin rot.

Once you have all of these items, then you are now ready to know how to take care of betta fish. The first important step in how to take care of betta fish is to prepare the home of your betta fish and you should take some of these points into consideration:

When choosing a home, you should remember that in the wild betas come from Thai rice paddies and they are capable of living in quite shallow but spacious environments. When choosing a tank for your betta, you should remember to give your fish a good sized tank to help prolong life expectancy and more water is obviously better. If you are keeping your betta fish with other fish then you should use a tank which holds at least ten gallons of water. And remember- larger fish tanks will enhance the betta’s quality of life.

You should also decorate your betta fish tank and you should remember that one of the betta’s better known features is that it can breathe oxygen in the air and the water so you do not need to worry about aeration. You should decorate the tank with colored stones or gravel, silk plants and even a cave structure so that the betta can hide, remember the more creative the living space the happier the betta will be. Add a filter and a small heater to take care of betta fish. 



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About The Author
The author has created a review site that provides you with the most in-depth and complete analysis of the best care of betta fish guide called Caring for Betta Fish.

http://pet-whisperer.com/Betta-Lovers-Guide-Review.html

Saturday, January 28, 2012

How to Deal With Cichlid Diseases

by: Simon Edwards


Taking care of cichlids is a pretty simple task provided you adhere to some simple guidelines. Cichlids like you and I also suffer from sickness and diseases, and as their owner it is your responsibility to keep them at optimal health, meaning its good to keep an eye out for any signs of disease or sickness. If you neglect your fish then they will surely peril. 


Photo by: Ron's Aquarium photos 


Diseases in cichlid fish can be caused by parasites in the body, fungi on their exterior and also bad bacteria in the tank water.

Things that you want to look out for are cloudy or puffy eyes, sores on their bodies, loss of color, restricted movement, bloating of stomach or internal organs. Any of these symptoms are usually caused by some sort of bacterial infection.

If you observe any strange looking growth around the face area or sporadic behavior in the tank like darting about in a crazy manner you may be looking at some sort of fungal infection.

If you see any weak breathing, impaired movement, mucus growth on the skin, loss of appetite, spots, intense scratching. These are generally the sign of parasite infection which may include leeches, worms or lice.

Just about the most common cichlid disease is Hole in the head disease. Hexamita, usually results in rapid weight loss and a major loss of appetite, and you will also notice little indentations on and around the head area.

Ich or Ichtyophthirius is also another common cichlid disease. With this particular ailment whitened crystal marks show up on the head first, and then propagate over the entire body. Inhaling and exhaling is fast, the fish scrapes a great deal, and also the eye balls and fins all become cloudy.

When the belly is enlarged, and you find reddish scales encircling this area, it is possible that the cichlid is actually struggling with Dropsy. This may be because of germs, parasites, or even cancer. The best way to deal with this is saltwater treatment.

If you neglect their water conditions then your fish may end up with Fish Pox, Fin Rot or even Ammonia poisoning.

Columnaris or Cotton Wool Disease is one you must be very wary of as it is very contagious. Symptoms will be a grey/white layer on the skin, fin damage, ulcers and sores, loss of color in the gills. You must treat this immediately with a good antibiotic type treatment, and u will have to treat the whole tank. The same goes for Fish Tuberculosis which too is extremely contagious.

Another parasite type infection is Slime Disease which causes a white coating of the skin, sporadic movement, reddening around the gills and even folded fins. You must treat this straight away with a good parasitic medication and also by raising the water temperature a degree or two.

Cichlids can also suffer from constipation which will cause a swelling of the stomach, loss of appetite, and erratic swimming. The fish may even have feces hanging off of them. The best way to fix this is to starve them for two days then start them on a different diet.

On the subject of diet if you over feed your fish they may end up with Swim Bladder disease which will cause difficulty in swimming, swimming upside down, floating. Flip Over disease is also possible with these symptoms.

One popular way of dealing with diseases is salt treatment, but this should ideally only be done in a quarantine tank as other fish may be negatively affected. Plus it will not guarantee a cure for all diseases.

Fish tanks with heated water can become an incubator for disease if not monitored correctly. Regular cleaning of your tank and water will be your best weapon against disease in your aquarium.

It is best to spot these things as early as possible so as to implement a cure strategy before it is too late....Good Luck



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About The Author


You will find a vast range of cures and treatments for Cichlid Diseases on my websitehttp://www.cichlidssite.com which also covers cichlid breeding, care, species, buying, tank setup and much much more.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

The Colors of Koi

by: Mark Justice


Photo by: Araleya
The Japanese have taken a great deal of pride in the careful breeding of Koi Fish to produce the many different fabulous colors and patterns that are available today. Koi fish are loved and treasured by their owners because of the gorgeous colors and patterns available. 

Vivid and bright colors shoud mark the Koi Fish. Yellow Koi should be a vivid yellow, and black Koi should be a deep jet black. Dullness of color or spots that are slighly off color are undesirable qualities. You also don't want any specks of gray in your pure white Koi. Color is an indicator of the Koi's overall good health. Imperfect water conditions as well as dull drab colors is an indicastion of poor health. Understanding the importance of color and what the colors should be will help a great deal when you are selecting your Koi. It will also help to keep an eye on the color at home as you are raising them to be sure the water conditions and care you are giving them is the best quality possible. 

Koi Fish come in a large variety of colors. Some of the most seen Koi colors are red, black, white, green, blue, yellow and cream. Certain terms and descriptions are used by the Japanese to describe the different colors and traits of the Koi Fish, There are a large number of categories that have been identified by Koi breeders. Gosanke is the most popular variety and it includes many sub-categories such as Kohaku, Taisho Sanshoki and Showa Sanshoki Koi. The Kohaku are white with red patterns. The white on this breed of Koi should be pure white and the red should cover 50 to 70 percent of the body with well defined edges. 

The Taisho Sanshoki category or Taisho Sanke or just Sanke, as they are also known, are white fish with red and black markings. Again the white should be snowy white and the red and black should be brightly colored with distinct edges. Like the Sanke category of Koi, the Showa Sanshoki, or just Showa category are white black and red in color as well. The difference is that the main color is black with white and red markings. There are many other varieties that each come in their own color variations. The Ogon come in an assortment of colors but they are all one color. They sould be a solid bright color with no patterns, or markings at all. 

You can help keep you Koi's colors bright and distinct by feeding them a rich diet. Shrimp, marigold, plankton and blue-green algae known as Spirulina are some of the things added to commercial grade diets for Koi. These foods are specifically geared to enhance the colors and markings of the Koi. Also, adding foods such as freeze dried brine shrimp and daphnia, you are ultimately feeding them color anhancing foods. Each of these fodds have high concentrations of carotenoids, and carotenoid pigments are the major pigments in the Koi's skin.

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About The Author


Mark Justice is a koi fish enthusiast. For more information on koi colors, visit:http://www.raisingkoifish.com

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Lemon Tetras

by: Linda Paquette

Glassily transparent, the lemon tetra (hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis) could appear to be just a sunbeam flashing through your community tank if not for background elements like plants and driftwood. Another member of the large characin clan, the lemon tetra has a fairly elongated body like its smaller relative the neon tetra and like neons and other characins, the lemon tetra does best if kept in small schools of six to eight fish.

Photo by: CK Yeo
One of the most distinguishing features of the lemon tetra is their large eyes. The upper part of the lemon tetra’s eye is brilliant red, which is a sharp contrast to the yellow pastels it displays in its body colors. Actually, though, the lemon tetra is quite colorful on close inspection. Body coloring is a delicate pale yellow, flanks are silver, and the leading edge of the anal fin is shiny-bright-yellow and sharply divided from the other rays, which are black. In the male, the rest of the anal fin is broad and fringed in black, a characteristic that is missing in the plumper female. As many male characins do, the male lemon tetras also have tiny hooks on their anal fins. Both males and females have the tetras’ characteristic adipose fin, which is also pale yellow in color.

Although omnivorous and able to exist on a diet of flaked food, the pale yellow color of the lemon tetra displays best if the fish’s standard diet is well supplemented with live treats. The lemon tetra is an egg-scatterer. However, breeding can be tricky since females often have a problem expelling their eggs and after spawning, the lemon tetra like many others of its species, is quick to cannibalize its eggs if not removed from the breeding tank. However, eggs will hatch in about 24 hours after spawning. Fry should be fed a live diet and if they survive, they’ll be about two inches long as adults.
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About The Author


Linda is an author of AquariumGuides.com Hundreds of especially written articles about your aquarium fish and aquarium hobby.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Aquarium Fish Health: White Spot Disease Symptoms And Cures

by: Nathan Miller


Fish death is one of the main problems that beginner aquarist and even some expert aquarist face. It’s frustrating to the extent that most quit keeping aquarium fish.

Photo by FJP


But fish death can be avoided. Most fish deaths are caused as a result of both an internal and external types parasites that compete with the fish in tank.

As a result if you watch your aquarium fish often you should be able to discover when they have been infected by this parasite and be able to treat them to avoid fish death.

Look out for the following White Spot disease behavioral symptoms in your fish:

- Constant lying on the bottom or hanging at the surface.
- Rubbing of the body against rocks
- Gasping at the water surface
- No response to feeding
- General dullness and lethargy
- Hovering in a corner
- Fish swimming with clamps up

The most common of the visible signs is the development of the pin head-size while spots on the body or fins. This ailment is referred to as White Spot disease and is caused by the parasite - Ichthyophthirius Multifillis.

This parasite has a free-swimming stage, which attaches itself to the fish. The most common chemical used in treating infected fishes is Methylene Blue. You could buy a one per cent stock solution from a reputable chemist or aquarium shop and apply at 0.8 to 1.0ml per gallon of water. This amount should be added all at once. Repeat after one or two days.
The fishes must remain in this bath until every while spot has disappeared. A water change after treatment is necessary or else prolonged contact with the chemical may affect the fertility of the fish.

Another tip if you are using a side filter with activated charcoal should remove it to prevent the coal from absorbing the Methylene Blue.

Another tip... during treatment you should use artificial aeration with coarse bubbles near the surface, since a dirty bottom would inactivate the medicament by absorption. A better measure is to remove all dirt from the bottom before treatment.

Methylene Blue is harmless to young fish and unlike the general belief, it does not affect plants if used in weaker concentration.
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About The Author


Nathan Miller


For more great aquarium related articles and resources check outhttp://freshwaterfish.aquariumspot.com

Thursday, November 3, 2011

5 Tips For Your Goldfish Aquarium Maintenance

by: Abe Hensley 

Photo by:  axlbxl  
A hobby like that of maintaining a fish aquarium is something that gives one a real pleasure and takes one close to nature. But, sustaining aquatic life in conditions like that of a fish aquarium is not easy if you don’t have an exact idea of what exactly to do. Goldfish is one of the all-time favorites and needs a lot of care. Here are some general tips for keeping and maintaining a goldfish in aquarium.

1. The life for a goldfish is around 5 to 10 years. It highly depends on the fish aquarium conditions and also upon your way of maintaining it.

2. Goldfish is a very active fish and keeps on moving around in the fish aquarium. Therefore you need to give it a lot of space to swim in the fish aquarium.

3. As the goldfish lives at normal room temperature therefore you would need a heater to maintain temperature in the fish aquarium. The goldfish cannot bear any kind of rapid and abrupt changes in temperature so you need to have a good system for maintaining favorable conditions for fish.

4. Remember to put some of the ornaments or plants to your fish aquarium. This would also provide the fish with hideouts. These hideouts will make fish more active and have a positive effect on them.

5. Now, something about the water, that is the most important thing. As the water in the fish aquarium gets old, it develops some very useful and beneficial bacteria. These make fish healthy but it is a very time taking process. Also look for the extra leftover food that is left over and starts rotting up. This also produces lots of toxins that are harmful and may affect your fish badly.

http://www.aquariumhow2.com


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About The Author

Some people just have a calling, they're born with a adoration of something without knowing why. My family never lived near the ocean, however I always enjoyed fish. I recollect getting my very first fish on my 9th birthday, from my grandfather and grandmother; unfortunately the fish perished inside a couple of weeks. I was so annoyed, but that made me study more about how you can take care of them. Subsequently I have studied and built my personal freshwater and saltwater aquaria, made heaps of mistakes, but had so a lot fun. I have assisted plenty of young families build their personal home aquariums...they've been shocked at the difference it has made to their lives. An aquarium just gives this quiet and peace to the room, I suppose that's why I really like it so a lot.

Regardless, please look into my blog and get involved

http://www.aquariumhow2.com

http://www.4LUREFISHING.COM

http://www.4LANDSCAPEGARDEN.com